KOSHIN-SAN:

Being chased by and chasing the God of Thunder

by Hellevi Raita

We left Seveneleven at 7.30, remarkably late to be a TWMC-hike, all the five of us stuffed into Terry's car: Paul, Neil, Ralf, Terry and myself. We followed Route 125, with the intention of then taking R 408, but Terry decided to take a short-cut, as he put it, green road 15, intersecting with R 50 just before Oyama city. Would otherwise have been a smart move, but there were quite a few road works on the way slowing down the pace.

We arrived at Funaishi-pass at noon and started our extra walk to the small peak of Bizentateyama, from the parking at appr. 1000 m only an elevation of 200 m. There were very good views to all directions from the peak and nice poink flowers in the trees near the peak. The weather was partly cloudy, a little sunny as we had something to eat watching a group of Japanese take their group photograph with the peak sign in the background. The peak was not very big, so although the group of Japanese consisted of less than ten people and there were only five of us, it felt crowdy until they left. According to the map it should have been a 2hrs 30 min walk, but you can easily take an hour off this estimation.

For our main hike we parked at Ginzan-daira, next to the gate where the road is closed off. We made our way to the mountain hut, a hike of a rough two hours, excluding a 15 min break at Ichi-no-torii. For about half of the way, one walks along a closed off road, which is easy. Along the road we spotted some snow monkeys, they were rather shy in contrast to those in Nikko that aggressively beg for food. These guys just turned their backs at us and ran further up the hill whenever Ralf or me pointed a camera at them, as if they knew what we were doing. Then we reached a resting place next to the water falls area, and from there on the trail was a rocky one in the woods, not a very difficult one either, of course depending on the weight of your ruck sack. Despite Paul's famously heavy luggage, him and Neil stretched off on their tall legs and were resting at the balcony of the hut when the rest of us finally arrived. On the way we accountered the half-way stone, where a tale tells that a father used to come and meet his daughter after marrying her to a frog, having been promised riches. Somewhat later there was the two frogs-stone, a rock looking like two huge frogs making it out. Only a few minutes after we arrived at the hut, Koshin sansou (the hut), it started to rain, so our planned barbeque had to take place indoors although there is a fire place outside of the hut. Fortunately Terry had been thoughtful of that, and we had brought small gas burners along.

Except for us, there was only an elderly Japanese man staying at the unmanned hut that night.
While the rest of us were preparing our futons upstairs, we heard a terrifying scream from Paul, who'd gone down to the "kitchen" (a little room with two sinks and a couple of kettles) to take off his contact lenses. In the sink he encountered "madarakamadouma", a pretty 3 centimeters long bronzecoloured waterhop with tall legs and tentacles. there were lots of them in the sinks, and they immediately fell collectively in love with Paul, a relationship that would last for the rest of our stay at the hut. Paul later told us he yelled because of the rusty water coming from the long unused faucet. As we had our feast of barbequed vegetables, sausages and beefs, wine, beer and sake, the Japanese man had already gone to bed. Our party in the light of the shrine candles given to us by the Japanese man was only disrupted by one of Paul's friends, who looking for his lover first jumped at Paul from the table, finally ending up in Neil's cup of what ever something. Neil washed him down in the sink again. What the Japanese man's sleep might have been disrupted by we can only guess. In the late night, Ralf managed to scare off a hurd of deer that had been resting outside the hut when going out for a leak. Our sleep was, however, disrupted by a thunder storm sounding like the end of the world, and rain like pee from hell. Paul, the only one who managed to sleep through all the other noise, was only woken by one his bronze-coloured friends crawling over his face... At five in the morning the Japanese man left the hut for his hike. Myself having just fallen asleep after the thunder storm, I was about to shout at Paul to stop digging in his ruck sack at that hour, but then I heard the door slam.

By the time we were supposed to leave, at 7.30, it was still raining. We had planned to climb up to the 1900 m Koshin-san, a steep ascent of 400 m over only 1,3 km, then continue over a ridge to Nokogiriyama (1998m) and return through a valley to the hut. This we estimated to take five hours, and then we would descend to the parking for onsen. But the rain kept us inside the hut for another hour, and leaving at 8.40 we reached Koshin-san at 10 passing after chains, ladders (including one particularly nasty made of wood hanging horizontally at the side of a rock, looking rotten and insecure) and steep muddy passages. On the top of the mountain the trail leading to the actual peak was rather flat, and in the woods there was some snow left. Occasionally we'd sink knee-deep into the snow. Such a strange feeling walking in snow wearing a sweaty t-shirt! At the peak of Koshin-san we found ourselves inside a cloud, with a sight of 200 m. The Japanese man had left a note for us telling he was heading for the far-away peak of Sukai-san, on of the 100 best hiking mountains in Japan. He had reached the peak at 6.30. After counting the pros and cons of continuing and turning back to the hut over and over again, we finally decided to return because of the snow, the bad sight, the unreliable weather and the fact that we were late in our schedule, making it almost a sure thing we'd have to the last part of our walk in the dark. Walking down to the hut took about an hour, and wasn't as difficult as one had imagined walking up. However, it was just at the nasty wooden ladder that we'd meet one of the few persons we met on their way up. From the hut we went to nearby viewing point, Tenka-no-miharashi , where we enjoyed our lunch and nice views over much of the surrounding valleys. The ridge and the mountain peaks were covered with clouds for almost all of the time.

On our way down to the parking, which in itself took two hours for the slower part of the group, it started thundering and raining again. The longlegged reached the parking much earlier. Leaving a bag of garbage hanging at the car door, they were hiding in a small cabin as we arrived, a clear sign of protest. When we reached the onsen, Kazika-sou, only a few hunderd meters away, it was raining very heavily, but the hot bath gave us a nice rest. Unfortunately we couldn't have a meal at that place, since the kitchen had already closed (at 4 pm). When we got out of the onsen we had sunshine, and we met the guy who had been staying at the hut. He told us he didn't after all go to Sukai-san, because there was so much snow and ice on the between the first two peaks. Crossing it in the rain had taken so much of his time and energy that even though he had only fulfilled the route we had planned to take, he had ran
out his water and food supplies before reaching the mountain hut. We shrudded at the thought of arriving at the onsen four hours later than him as we packed into the car and headed for Tsukuba. In Oota city we stopped to eat a very nice restaurant (Hyoemon?) that I was meaning to recommend, since the portions we got were big, tasty and cheap, but I have lost my receipt... But for most of the way back we could enjoy a spectacular show of thunder lightenings in the east, it just went on for hours, and lit up the far away sky in different colours.


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